Diary February 2013

1^st and 2^nd February.   Our gas supply needed a small repair so we made a short visit to the Caravan service chap near Faro and besides getting the job done came away with two new LED light fittings.  Now I can use the lights above the cooker without worrying about how much battery is being used - great.  Our overnight tonight is to be at Praia do Barril  back along the coast just outside Tavira as we haven’t yet visited this area.   There is a lovely walk ( or train ride) here out to the sand dunes where the tuna fishing village existed until 1966 and the small restaurant had lots of photo’s of the enormous fish being caught here. For some reason part of the dune is covered with anchors which do actually keep the dunes in place.  It’s a bit windy here so much warmer in the van in the afternoon.

3^rd February.  The wind has eased so we are taking a cycle ride to nearby Santa Luzia with the pretext of getting to a WiFi café (done and dusted) and buying rolls for lunch.  After much searching around the narrow side streets, we did find a small corner shop, they had bread (a bit hard) but no rolls.  Luckily, we also found a great fish restaurant with no English on the menu (a good sign) and no English folk inside.  We were shown their selection of fresh fish of the day including Cuttlefish, Squid, Sea Bream, baby Mackerel and  Eel.  Guided towards the Monkfish, Clam and Prawns with rice stew by the owner we settled in for a gastronomic delight and a good people watching event…..smashing! and our best lunch yet.  Pity about the rolls though!  

   

4th February.  Vistied Tavira today.  Very relaxed atmosphere here with a lovely square and Roman bridge.  Even better when we spotted a small builders merchants who supplied 16 amp plug connectors so Les could make up a doubler for the electrics,  We can now connect two leads into one socket.  Some Aires don't have enough outlets so we can now share with another van.  Les very pleased - and it works !

5th February.  We have decided to stay two nights at this little rural campsite near Moncarapacho. The owner seems to think he is making a small US style ranch here but it misses the point somewhat. There are a couple of ostriches in a field and some saddles hung up in a shed so I suppose it's a start.  I had a nice walk nearby and managed to come back with an assortment of oranges and clemantines - quite by accident of course.  Lucky I had a bag with me!       

6^th February.  We departed from Moncarapacho mid morning and made the short journey of 3 miles down to the coast, to the little port of Fuzeta.  A windier day today so feels a little cooler, but sunny nonetheless.  Fuzeta is a small working port with a sizeable fishing fleet, probably because it is almost opposite the entrance in the sand bar to the open sea.  We popped into the fish market, and although a little late we did buy a couple of Sea Bass, which we will be sampling this evening.  A stroll through this sleepy town, where we bought some bread rolls for lunch and a stop in the square for a coffee.  After lunch we had a stroll along the sea front and took the opportunity to view some new apartments that overlooked the sea.  A one bedroom was 260,000 € with the 2 bedroom rising to 350,000 €.  But so well appointed and lovely views over the beach and nature reserve.  We originally parked in a large car park near the sea front but were told by some English motorhomers that although they stayed there last night they couldn’t tonight as the car park was being used for the market tomorrow, so we are parked, with about 5 other vans, alongside the harbour entrance.  This despite there being a big camp site (12 € per night without electricity) just across the way.  So we shall see if we can stay here for the night or if we are moved on this evening!

7^th February.  We weren’t moved on and we slept well even if awoken very early by the clanging of steel poles over in the square as the erection of the market stalls took place.  Honestly - you wonder why they bother really – such a lot of rubbish in the market, we walked through twice trying to make a purchase but to no avail!   Later in the day we moved on to Olhao, a much bigger fishing town.    Les has been envious very of other chaps sizzling their pork or fish outside their vans in the evenings so we have been trying to buy a gas ring so he could utilise the external BBQ outlet. Hooray! – today we found just the thing, only have to wait to get the connector now and he will be off cooking “al fresco” (photo to come later when he uses it)  Men – fire – allotment – caveman!!!?

Olhao seafront

8^th February.  After a  horrible night spent in noisy Olhao we left, our earliest yet, at 9am still heading west and found a lovely parking spot just outside the old town of Faro.  Nice and quiet, until a plane came over - we almost had to duck (well it felt like that anyway) and the old town was charming.  A special treat this morning was the childrens’ Carnaval  procession that was just about to start down by the marina, we waited a while until this passed us.  Les nervously even took some photo’s ! but only after he got over the fact that no-one is prosecuted here in Portugal for taking snaps of kids!  This weekend is ‘Carnaval’ in most of Catholic Europe, so in the few days just before Shrove Tuesday there is lots of revelling going on.   

As it was still early in the day we set off in the hope of finding the “Number 1 walk in the Algarve” in the Ria Formosa area quite near Faro.  We knew we had to find Praia Quinta do Largo so set the GPS for that and it looked easy.  First, we found ourselves down a narrow sandy lane ‘overarching’ (in the original sense) with bamboo and just enough room for us to squeeze through. Next, we came to what must be the golf capital of Europe surrounded by mansions and it soon became clear that, a) motorhomes were from another planet and, b) there were no road signs to the start of the walk - just  in case people would actually dare to come over to this very exclusive spot and take a walk. Not to be beaten, we ploughed on, asking a security guard where we could park and hoping it would all be worth it, we set off.  Except for the fact that it was spring tides and high water which meant we had to walk on the golf course for some of the time ( no, we weren’t chased off ) it was beautiful, we saw some birds new to us and even the Purple Swamp Hen which is resident here in the Algarve - so it was all worth it in the end.  Pity it’s not a bit more accessible.

Swamp Hen  ( Yes - it's a library shot! )

9^th February.  Today was spent in Quarteira, a not very attractive holiday resort town but which was holding another Carnaval procession - for the adults this time.  Not bad, but quiet noisy music that was going non-stop for hours on end.  We were more interested in the hundreds of small dinghies racing out on the water.  The tiny Optomists, lasers and 420’s – a lovely sight. 

See the Blog for more Carnival Pic's

10^th February.  A lazy day today, sitting by the van in Quarteira planning where we would go for the next week. Then this van pulled into the Aire - I really love the painted window shutters! this is the best van we have seen so far and there have been some very original designs.

11^th February.  Rain overnight and in the morning so we decided to travel up the Alte a small village north of the coast.  We were lucky that a Dutch chap was just leaving as the Aire is very small and just enough for about six vans.  This is a typical while stone Portuguese village set in the hills with several natural springs running into the small river.  There is another ‘Carnaval’ procession here tomorrow as it’s Shrove Tuesday so we are well placed to see it. Hoping to get some walking in too.

The small font at Alte

12^th February.  While in Alte we passed by an old house with a handwritten sign saying ‘Museum’ outside.  Being nosey, I of course peered into the dark interior and came upon perhaps the smallest, oldest man I have ever seen sporting a wide grin and beckoning smile.  Well that was it, I was inside and being taken round his house which was packed full of memorabilia of his life and possibly his grandfather’s life also.  Up the stairs we went and I didn’t have the heart not to carry on as he pointed out all the various things to me and anticipated my reaction.  I saw countless wireless sets, sewing machines, tools, china, bucket showers and hand washing implements and as I looked back I realised that Les had not entered the museum with me – much to wise.   The old man and I were now three stories up and out onto the upper terrace with a fantastic view all around and surrounded by more time worn household paraphernalia and newspaper cuttings in English of himself and his museum. The family had been shoemakers many years ago and he had kept lots of the leather and tools for this purpose.  (No, I didn’t see any elves)

After about fifteen minutes I thanked the man and indicated that I would now be going.   Just by the door he pointed to a small drawer which he slid open for me to make my donation – luckily I did have some small change and didn’t mind at all - in fact I thought it all very enterprising of him to supplement is probably very small pension in this way. 

13 February.  We are now just ten miles south near the small town of Paderne and parked near the wash-house which is still in daily use especially with us motor-homers.  It only has cold water so I may give it a miss this time.  We have met up with Pam and Colin again quite by chance and had a lovely walk over to the castle ruins.

 14^th February.  Another day spent in Paderne so we decided to give the wash-house a try.  Les assisted, when he wasn’t taking photo’s, and I must say it was quite a novelty - the water was so soft and not very cold at all.  Not sure I would like to do all the washing in this way though.  Take no notice of the green algae, the washing came out fine!

 As it was Valentines day we then walked over the hill to the small town and to the Football club - we had been recommended to try here for lunch. Having looked in it certainly looked as if was the best around as it was full of locals tucking into lovely fish.  There was no menu but we soon learned that it was fish or pork that day and we were guided to one or two fish by the owner not really sure if we were being sold the dearest options. Well, what a lovely meal – olives and bread to start, next the lovely succulent fish with potatoes and salad and a half carafe of local wine.  For pud we had homemade swiss-roll with apple and some strawberries.  It was then that Les remembered he only had 5€ on him, typical, and everyone takes cash here in Portugal.  Lucky I had gone to the cash machine yesterday in anticipation of eating out today.  Not that we need have worried too much as the total cost was only 15€ for us both.  What a bargain!

   

15^th February.  Shopping day ugh….  However, we did manage to but a date Sim so that we can use our pad and laptop online – within reason of course.  Found a lovely overnighter at Praia St Raphael close to Albefreira.  The area here reminds me of a mini twelve apostles in Australia, very rugged with stacks all along the coast and good walking.

16^{th -} 18^th February.  A few days staying with Les’s uncle again gave us the opportunity take them out for a nice meal, we had Cataplanya which is a fish stew, and to do some washing.  Unfortunately we have noticed that our leisure batteries seem to be failing us so we will have them checked out with the Camperserv  guy near Loulé.  If we need new ones we will nip over the border to Spain as we have found out they are half the Portuguese price over there.   

 
19th - 22nd February.  Yes..... we did need to get new batteries but we had to wait a few days for them to come in on the next order.  Spain is just about 40 miles away so no big deal really and the weather has changed for the worse so we are not missing any good walking weather.  Les has now fitted the batteries and also made up an electric extension lead so we now have a good " belt and braces job".  Sod's law dictates we won't need the long lead now for weeks.
We have decided to stay a few days in a private Aire in Albefeira as the weather has now got very windy and it wouldn't be a good idea to try and stay close by the beach. We will resume our trip when the sun comes out again.

A bit like Bognor ? 

23rd February.  Last night was very windy and rainy so we were pleased to be tucked up in our Aire rather than be out by the beach. The sun did come out by late morning so we walked the 1.2 miles down to the beach and town and found the usual holiday-maker types out in their shorts and Tshirt's whatever the weather - and yes, it was very chilly also with an added wind-chill factor.  We have to remind ourselves every now and again of the temperatures back home that are a good ten to fifteen degrees or so colder than here and then we are smiling again.

That's better - more like Portugal now

24^th February.  After two nights at Albefeira we were ready to go on, it’s all a bit too organised here and we are longing to feel more free, hopefully, by parking near to the beach.  We headed for Salgados where there is a large lagoon is also quite near to a golden sandy beach and although we had been told by friends that overnighting might be a problem it did seem that others folk were giving it a go, so we stayed.  There are boardwalks over to the lagoon and a handy beach bar halfway.  Much to our surprise we saw quite a number of flamingos in the lagoon, some pink and others still in their juvenile white plumage and another quite shy purple swamphen which scuttled off into the reeds very quickly.  We didn’t take any bird photo’s today so no evidence I am afraid! This was our sunset view - not bad! 

                    

25^th February.  The police arrived at 9.30am – they drove up and down a bit taking note of how many vans had parked up and luckily, they then left.  Soon after that we did too.  We had noticed a much nicer place to stay while we were on our walk yesterday so we stopped off at the  “ Apolonia Supermarket “ - ( twice the price of any other shop we had seen before and then we realised  it was Waitrose -  Portuguese style.)   Luckily we didn’t need much so we got out quick and set off 3 miles down the road to our “Looks like the New Forest” wilding overnight spot with loads of lovely birds around.    We had noticed a few bee hives next to a derelict building quite near to us and while I was out for a walk to nearby Amacao de Pera the owners came to collect their honey.  Pity I missed the experience but Les got a lovely shot. 

26^th February.  Les’s birthday today but he is happy enough to stay here in this natural environment as I have promised him an English ‘brunch style’ lunch.  We walked over the dunes to the café for the WiFi, it was very sunny with a good view of the beach and sea and Les was able to have a chat with family and pick up his messages. Soon after our friends Wenda and Mike contacted to find out where we were so they could join us before they head north back to the UK.  They arrived around lunch time and we strolled down to the lake with our binoculars later with them to see the flamingos.  All was going well until about 5.30pm when the police turned up saying we could stay here …..but not overnight.  They asked for men’s passports so details could be entered onto a form, so it all got a bit scary.  After a lot of confusion with the language translation etc. we finally realised he was saying that “we could stay the night but his friend may turn up later and fine us between 150€ and 200€.” OK ?…….. so we left, with poor Mike and Wenda leading us to another parking spot further down the coast which they knew was OK.  Sorry Wenda, we thought we were doing you a favour showing you a new location.  

27^th February.  Waving goodbye to our friends in the morning we headed back to Galé for shopping, washing and water fill up etc.  We had lunch down at the beach at Galé, the washing had been left at the Lavateria and we were to call back later when it would all be washed and dried for us …….bliss. 

Galé Beach

We travelled on up the coast to Senhora de Rocha.  This cliff walk is fabulous here and the wild flowers are starting to show.  There is also a tiny chapel right on the cliff edge which may have been the last remnants of a castle or fort complex.  You can see how the sea is eroding the cliffs away here.  We parked up with five other vans for the night.    

28^th February.  The morning was spent obtaining free internet outside a café that was closed for the season and spying out a lovely beach restaurant with a magnificent view of the beach and best of all, out of the wind!   We decided to treat ourselves to our joint birthday lunch here and chose a large sea bream to share – a most delicious meal, if a bit pricey – but what the heck “it’s our birthday” we said.  One of the problems with Portugal is that everyone wants cash because there is a 6% charge to the retailer.  We had to scrape the bottoms of our purses and luckily had just enough to pay for the meal but at least didn’t lose face by having to wash up.

 As we were moving on today we later popped into the local Intermarché for a few bits – total spend 4.70€. Again our cards were not accepted and we didn’t now have enough cash left even for this small amount. Les dashed off to the in store ATM only to find that there was no money in the Caxton card account...... Slight hiccup on the loading of the card we decided – how embarrassing! Sorting through other cards we did manage to pay for the food and then had to go online to transfer Euros into our bank account.  We are obviously eating far beyond our means!

We travelled on to Praia da Marinha intending to spend two nights here before the predicted bad weather arrives.