Friday 23 November 2012

Late Autumn Update


Well, we have settled into our Gite quite nicely.  I have mastered the technique for lighting and running the wood burner and am officially known as the ‘Woodbernerist’.  However there were a few mishaps along the way with multiple lighting attempts and roaring sessions when many logs were used!  Jean is much happier that  I can now light with minimal paper and one firelighter, getting the fire roaring before placing the big logs on, and turning down the air vent, so we get lovely red glowing logs for the evening.

Will we have enough logs for the winter?


For the first few days we did have a fair amount of steady rain (not heavy and windy like the UK!) and discovered we had a couple of water leaks that stained the ceiling, with one dripping around an electric light fitting.  We called out the English maintenance man (Dave) who came to check it out with his French assistant (Jacques).  They told us that as this used to be an agricultural building the roof tiles just lay on the timber rafters without being fixed, and there being no waterproof membrane, it’s easy for the water to ingress.  Particularly if the wind has shifted the tiles.  So they went into the roof space and slid any offending tiles back into place.  As we haven’t had any rain for the last couple of weeks we don’t know if this has done the job, however rain is forecast next week so we shall see!

We asked them what the building had been used for in the past and Jacques told us that up in the loft space all the rafters are black from smoke which indicates that this building would have been used to dry the plums, that are grown in abundance in this area, to make prunes.  This area is well known for ‘Prune d’ Agen’ (Agen being a local big town) as we see them for sale in the shops and at the local markets.

We have been out and about exploring the local towns and sites, so a quick summary:

Duras – our local town that has basic shops such as baker, butcher, hairdressers, post office, a couple of bars & restaurants, pharmacy, wine merchant, florist, shoe shop, hunting/fishing shop and on the outskirts of town a Carrefour supermarket.  So we can get all of our needs locally.  The town sits up high overlooking some beautiful countryside and has a small chateau that is open to the public.  On November 11th we visited the Fete de St Martin – see Jeans Diary entry for more details and photos.

A Pigeonnier - a local sign of wealth
The view across the fields from our gite















Eymet – if you ever watch Little England on ITV on Monday evenings at 8.30pm you will have seen it mentioned and been given the impression that it is an English enclave.  It’s not.  It’s a lovely old bastide town that has a busy market on Thursday mornings.  

Eymet on market day
Eymet on market day

Eymet on market day
Eymet on market day

Yes there are a lot of English about but it is still very French.  If you live out here I suppose it is a good opportunity to catch up with English friends and to buy a few treats such as pork pies, steak & Guiness pies, Cornish pasties, bacon, sausages, etc. There is even an English shop that stocks things like Atora suet!  However, a walk around the town, with the printed guide from the tourist office, gives you an insight into the history of the place from medieval times.  As you walk through the back streets you can see the old timber framed houses.  In it’s day it would have been a medieval Milton Keynes – the bastide square (a pedestrian square with shops in all sides but with covered walkways and arches) with the streets laid out in a grid pattern.  They were offering the same size living plot to all to encourage them to come and live in the town.  The whole idea was to encourage trade and commerce.  There are bastide towns throughout the Dordogne

Marmande – we had a quick shopping trip south to Marmande to try the bigger LeClerq Hypermarche.  The town is on the Garonne river and although we had a quick drive through the centre we didn’t stop.  It looked quite nice and quite commercial so we may pay another visit in the future.  Much bigger than Duras.

Between us and Eymet we spotted a lake on the map with a footpath all the way round so we had to investigate.  The lake is a reservoir and when we arrived and walked up to the top of the dam we discovered the lake was almost empty!  We walked along the top and up one side of the lake during which time we spotted Cormorants, Heron, Ducks and Oyster Catchers.  As the water was so low, what fish were in there must have found it very crowded as there were huge fish leaping out of the water and belly flopping back in.  There were notices stating that the low water level was exceptional and that fishing was now prohibited.  We later discovered the contents of the lake were not for drinking water but for agricultural irrigation.  No doubt it will get replenished in the winter months.

Our first visitors from the UK
Jean's sister Gill and her husband Rob came over and spent a few days with us.  They flew in from Southampton to Bergerac using FlyBe, arriving on a nice cloudless sunny day.  We waited by the fence that runs alongside the runway, and before the flight was due in an airport pickup truck set off around the perimeter track stopping occasionally to let off airborne fireworks that ended with a bang.  We realised they were scaring the flocks of birds, that feed around the airfield, before the aircraft came in to land – mainly Lapwings.  The turbo-prop plane landed and Gill & Rob were out of the building within minutes – quite different to Gatwick!

 


Over the coming few days we visited Bergerac (and viewed the statue of Cyrano) and Eymet, showed them around the area and visited a small local Xmas fair (Marche Noel), taking in a few meals and and glasses of wine on the way!  It was quite nice to be able to have some English conversations and a bit of company in our little French house, it almost as felt as if we lived here.  We visited our nearest restaurant in Auriac sur Dropt for lunch on Monday (only open Monday to Friday – not at weekends) and enjoyed a splendid five course lunch, including wine, for 12.60 Euros per person.  When we arrived at 12.15 the place was packed with people.  Methinks we will be visiting there again.

So this morning (November 20th) we woke to a lovely sunny dawn with a few patches of light mist, however, as seems to happen over here, the mist filled and the surrounding countryside disappeared from view.  Needless to say we had a murky journey back to the airport, which is about 45 minutes from the house.

Don't forget to check Jean's Diary entries for more regular updates!

Sunday 4 November 2012

Settling into 'Columbine'


After two months living in our motorhome we are really pleased to be ‘at home’ for November and December in our little stone house with beautiful views near Duras in the Dordogne.  We even have a resident red squirrel that searches around the hazelnut trees in the garden and pinches the bird seed in the night.
I must say it felt a little odd on the first day after the daily routine we had slipped into, but very welcome,  as the nights were getting quite cold especially if we didn’t manage to get hooked up to electricity.  
Now we have lots of decisions to make about where to put our stuff – so many rooms to choose from,  and  loads of walking about when we have forgotten where we’ve  put them.   We decided the first thing to be done was to have a luxurious bath, next, to find out where to get the wood for the burner in the lounge.  We have a lovely pool but sadly it will not be used this time, it still looks inviting though!
After a trip 2 km down the road we came upon the local woodsman and after much gesticulating and two more trips to ascertain the exact size of wood we would need, we eventually took delivery of our cubic metre of wood.  Now to sit back and toast.








We will be spending the next few weeks sampling the local wine, visiting the local markets and trying the local restaurants.   All for research purposes of course, as we look forward to seeing our friends and family in the weeks to come. 

Below is a map of our journey so far, just over 1000 miles since Calais  …….. to be continued in January 2013 when we head further south.